He says: "Hipsters don’t have a taste for chicken. They have a taste for inefficiently produced chicken. The more inefficiently produced it is (more land to roam around! more “natural” feed! no “chemicals”!), the higher it is valued. Farmers, supply chain specialists, and culinary experts direct their energies towards how to convince progressives that they should feel good about the pointless but expensive measures taken to produce the food, instead of making good food cheaper.
This is another way of saying the more a trendy food hurts the poor, the more highly valued it is by hipster-progressives."
Now, maybe this is restricted to hipsters and he's right, but I have a feeling "hipster" and "progressive" are significantly overlapping terms for him.
I don't go all-in on the socially-aware eating stuff, but I try to do as much of it as is reasonable. I think people really do care about the treatment of animals and bargaining with third world producers, and environmental impact when they eat.
Actually, Ryan hurts his own case elsewhere in the post when he points out the "hipster" proclivity towards vegetarianism or veganism too. Hipster vegetable-love is actually an important signal that efficiency is a hipster value. Vegetables are often embraced, not because of their health value, but precisely because they are more efficient (economically and environmentally) per calorie than meat.
One hipster dietary habit I hate is their anti-corn stance. I love corn, both when I know that it's actually corn, and when it's processed and added to food without my knowledge. It's delicious - but there's also a hipster value here. Biofuels made from corn, while good for American farmers, isn't the best thing for the environment. So I figure the more corn I eat, the more it drives up the price of ethanol, which incentivizes energy companies to invent cleaner fuels.
One thing Ryan says that I can emphatically agree with: "bacon is good".